Search previous month(s)    Aug  Jul  Jun  May  Apr  Mar  Feb  Jan  Dec  Nov  Oct  Sep

mdiamond 

Apr-25-2004 11:59

We just grouted the tiles we had layed yesterday in the bathroom.....a light tile with BLACK grout. We tried to get all the grout off the tile surface with a clean sponge and once the grout was somewhat dry, with a dry cloth (as directed). However, I noticed this morning there are still a number of spots where grout 'haze' is present....of course now we can't remove it with a dry colth. Any suggestions would be greatly appriciated. Will viniger or maratic acid work?

Dear MDIAMOND:

The polymer-modified grout haze has acrylic components... these are combined with the fine aggregate materials and are then more acid resistent... however, your tiles are not so acid resistant. We NEVER recommend using grout as a decorative accent. It never works very light tiles and dark gout. The joints are sometimes irregular, compared with the concept, and colour is not as uniform....the imagination is not matched by results.

Paul 

Apr-25-2004 11:02

I am going to install a mural in my pool. I would like to break up porcelain tiles (w/ 0.0 to 0.5 absorptive properties)so that I can get the irregular shapes I need for the detailed mural. Are there any special considerations that I need to keep in mind above and beyond normal pool tile installation?

Dear PAUL:

No, this is normal pool tile... mosaics are fully vitrified, porcelain ceramic as well.

Jay - Transitioning Thresholds 

Apr-25-2004 01:30

Transitioning Thresholds - Hi TileMan!!!! I am getting ready to put in approx. 700 Sq. Ft. of ceramic tile. Where carpeting now exists on a cement slab. I am planning on using marble at the door thresholds to the other rooms that will be 5/8" thick x 2" wide . I want to keep the carpet "for now" that is in the adjacent rooms. What is the best way to attach the carpeting next to this marble threshold? And will I have to "kick" the carpeting to make it tight? I'm affraid it might tear due to the age of it.

Dear JAY - TRANSITIONING THRESHOLDS:

Well, we're not carpet guys but okay-you can use carpet smooth edge and yes kick the carpet if you want it tight. If you're worried it may rip then don't kick it and the result will be a carpet that not tight but in one piece. Schluter also makes a transitional trim piece for under your marble and transitions down to accept and hold the carpet. This protects both edges. paddy

Dave 

Apr-24-2004 19:54

I just finished grouting and am noticing "cracks" in the grout. I've done grouting before and have never had a problem. Was this due to the grout drying too quick or not filing the joints fully? Can I gover over them again tomorrow with a thin layer of grout to smooth it our? Thanks

Dear DAVE:

Yes, you can.

THERESA 

Apr-24-2004 13:40

I have just tiled my bathroom with a tile with an irregular surface..the grout is a chocolate color and I am having difficulty getting the grout removed..I am using a hard brush but not having much success...it was grouted just two days ago do you have any suggestions as to what I could use..Thank you

Dear THERESA:

The initial cure of a cement grout happens within the first 24hrs. All residue and cement haze must be removed from the tile surface in the first hours. Cement must be re-emulsified in order to remove it. Acid is likely the only thing that will do it. The trick is to use a dilution of the lightest acid available to do the job. Next trick is to immediately neutralize the acid after you've removed all the cement from each tile and polished it dry removing the final layer of cement film. Rinse your brush well and change the rinse water almost after every tile so that you don't keep spreading the re-emulsified cement over other tile. Vinegar is the mildest acid, then phosphoric, then sulfamic. Good luck and you're welcome. paddy

dmd 

Apr-24-2004 12:19

I just purchased an old craftsman bungalow home. The previous owner installed a 3/4 bath with a terrible fiberglass shower. Can I tile the shower directly over the fiberglass, or must I remove the shower stall and instal the tile onto the wall board?

Dear DMD:

Remove the terrible fiberglass shower. It is not a stable enough backing and who knows how it was installed. Like you, I wouldn't trust anyone who made this choice in a beautiful craftsman bungalow. Nothing could be less Frank Lloyd Wright in my opinion than those hideous shower units. Sorry but sometimes just the thought and image of finding that in a period home is just too awful and I must express my personal preferences and opinion. paddy

Diane Bennett 

Apr-24-2004 08:06

I am wondering if there is any way of locating a tile we installed a few years ago. Cerdomus/ Basalto, 13x13 tile 13.13 sq. ft in box color is magnetite lot 520. If you could direct me or if we are out of luck. Thank you,

Dear DIANE BENNETT:

Why not contact the manufacturer? Cerdomus Ceramiche SpA ... ADDRESS: Via Emilia Ponente, 1000 Castelbolognese, Ravenna, Italy, 48014 PHONE: 011-390-546-652254 FAX: 011-390-546-653954 E-MAIL: info@cerdomus.com URL: www.cerdomus.com

jesse_r 

Apr-23-2004 23:13

I installed slate for a outside walkway entrance to a house, the homeowner was going to seal the slate himself since he sealed a mexican paver job in his backyard which came out fine.When he started sealing the slate he said that the sealers milky white residue didnt fade away like the backyard job. The good news is that he stopped sealing after 25 sqft,the only explanation I had for him was before he sealed the slate he had water or moisture built up on it.Or used the wrong sealer,he said that the slate was clean and completely dry prior to sealing the slate.He did say that the bottle of sealer said indoor use only,I doubt that was the reason for the milky white residue but mabye im wrong.What do you think?And what product do you recomend to strip the old sealer off and seal the slate to a glossy finish.Thank you for your time.

Dear JESSE_R:

The reasons you suggest for the occurence of a milky film are sound but if this is not the problem another answer could be that too much sealer was applied to the surface and allowed to puddle. Sealer must be worked into the surface in thin layers. Each layer must be forced into the remaining porosity of the stone with no standing residue of the sealer left on the surface. If the sealer is for interior use only-Why would someone think it would work on exterior??? IT WON"T!!! Go to Aqua Mix or Custom Building Products, both have strippers to remove the sealer and products suitable for exterior slate sealing. I would also question a glossy finish for a walkway. But if that is what the client wants make sure to check out the expected coefficient of friction (anti-slip) properties of the coating used. paddy

bob 

Apr-23-2004 21:26

what is the best way to seal the joints between hard board and blue board? can you put thin set on top of blue board oe spackel compound?not not what should i use

Dear BOB:

Surely the manufacturer of the board has a proven recommendation of which product should be used to fill in the joints between each board. Please ask them but spackel compound would not be one of my choices ever. Thinset is commonly used on most joints but some require mesh tape as well. paddy

Uneven Grout Color 

Apr-23-2004 13:06

Dear Tileman, Thank you for answering #6973. I understand there is certain natural variation in the grout color. However, the variation in my existing grout color ranges from fairly dark beige to almost antique white. It is very nonuniform. I called up the manufacturer that makes Polyblend grout -- my general contractor should have been the one doing that. The manufacturer told me that it could be due to inproper mixing of the grout mix and/or maybe there is a process called efflorence that is occuring. They advised me to wait for about 10 days and then use their surflamic acid to wash to see if there is any improvement before going to the next step of using grout color or stain. May I ask if you could agree their assessment and approach for the resolution of the problem that I have. Many thanks again.

Dear UNEVEN GROUT COLOR:

Well, one of the other Tileman encouraged you to live with the variation simply because this is the nature of all cement grout. However, if the variation is aesthetically not acceptable to you and it bugs you then you have several options. If you read the answer in the ID question referred to you will know that determining why you have this wide range of grout color is not an easy task and could have resulted from a number of common installation mis-steps. Knowing this, you could sit down with your contractor and advise him that the grout part of the job is not satisfactory. If the contractor agrees to regrout then print out our list of why grout varies and ask him to eliminate all of the variables he can when doing the grout again. Be prepared- there will still be minor variations. As we said, grout is not consistent- no matter what.Efloresence occurs when too much water is left on the joint or if the joint is overly wet during its cure. The soluble salts in the cement are drawn to the surface and form a whitish crust or crystalline film. This can usually be removed with a scouring pad or a little diluted CLR. You could follow the manufacturers recommendation on areas where there is only glazed tile, but be aware that if any of your marble or other stone is polished, the acid will etch the surface and provide only minimum results on the grout. Therefore, this would not be an option for me. The colorant is brushed onto only the grout line and removed immediately from the tile surface. With your stone I would tape off the edges. Labor intensive-yes. Welcome, paddy

brandon from cinnaminson 

Apr-23-2004 11:52

okay, now i am abusing your site. you answered my question about the redgard, thanks! you mentioned that sheet membrane is the best. i have heard different schoold of thought on this matter. i heard that sheet is not he best because is secured with thinset and it can shift a lot. it is good because of the uniform thickness though. i have also heard that a membrane that you put down is with a trowel or sprayer, is better because it will conform to the slight variations in the hight of a subfloor, or a slab. in other words, it almost acts like a leveler in certain cases? why is a sheet better, if thinset could crack, in cases of deflection, or a slab settling? not arguing, just would like a comparison explanation. thanks a lot!

Dear BRANDON FROM CINNAMINSON:

Sorry, for the delay, I was out of town and the other tilemen asked that I answer this question. Trowel applied membranes are easier to work with when you have odd angles or irregular configurations to deal with i.e. a radius, or wave configuration. A sheet membrane can be made to work with these odd configurations but it takes some expertise and patience to make the cuts and/or folds. Fortunately, however since we deal with square and rectangular tile and stone normally we deal with mostly flat and perpendicular conditions which a sheet membrane can adopt to easily. As far as a trowel membrane being used to level on the floor, I would caution against it as these material are elastomeric in nature and when built up, they will become quite forgiving which will make the load bearing capability questionable. Depending on what attributes you are looking for a trowel applied membrane is a waterproof membrane but is very limited in crack bridging capability most cannot allow for anything more than a 1/64". A sheet membrane on the other hand is also a waterproof membrane and can handle larger cracks some upto 1/16" and a few possibly as much as 1/8". The bonding of these membranes when done with mortar often are quite rigidly held down to the substrate whch neutralizes their crack suppression capability. This is why some of the sheet membranes use a contact adhesive or a roll on primer rather than mortar. The best membrane in my opinion however is a configured membrane that has free space on it's underside commonly known as an "Uncoupling membrane"An uncoupling system consists of a rigid plastic membrane geometrically configured to provide a grid structure of cut back cavities on top and interconnected channels of free-space underneath with an anchoring fleece laminated to its underside. An uncoupling system separates and protects the finished surface from movement stresses through in-plane geometric flexibility while providing a non-compressible supporting layer. An uncoupling system also provides independent moisture and vapor management through interconnected air channels at the substrate level while protecting the assembly from moisture penetration. Hope that satisfies your query. Your welcome, DK.

brandon from cinnaminson again 

Apr-23-2004 11:40

hey tile guy. i am sorry to bother you but the site is very helpful, i cannot resist. i worked with this older tile man, who taught me a lot. Almost all of the time, we laid wet beds, but more recently, the builders that i have been working with prefer hardiboard. ( a couple of years back it was durarock) anywho, this guy taught me a lot about tile instalation, but if there is one thing that i have learned, is that you never know it all. we used to float the durarock on 1/4" notch of thinset, and nail it about every 8-10 inches with 1 5/8 or 1 3/4 roofing nails. now that i am on my own i have been leaning more toward hardiboard myself, because it is much easier work with, especially with a table saw.... i asked my mentor and he said that he didnot see why this would be an acceptable method for securing the hardi board as well. you always mention to screw the board down, and they even sell hardibacker screw as depot. i gave them a try and they do not counter sink like they say they down. i even had a hilti te-15 on them and they did not sink or the heads broke off. in layman's, can i float the hardiboard on 1/4" of thinset, and secure it with roofers?

Dear BRANDON FROM CINNAMINSON AGAIN:

I always recommend to follow the manufacturers instructions to a tee whenever possible. If the screws you are using are the one James Hardie suggests and they do not work correctly, I'd direct my question to Hardie. They have done extensive field testing with their product and recommend mechanical fasteners that work. When you install any product beneath a finished surface and then have problems, the manufacturer's warranty may be null and void if you have used methods other than their recommendation. Go to the Hardi site simply by clicking on the banner at the top of this web-site. If they tell you roofers work in writing and you've found them effective in your work then you won't have a problem and you'll be covered by Hardie. paddy

Stacy M 

Apr-23-2004 11:39

Hello. I searched the archives but could not find an answer to my question. i hope i just didn't miss it because there are a lot of Q & A's to search. Here is my question, Is there a product that you can put on top of ceramic tile that is in a Bathroom that will make the tile not be slippery when it gets wet. We have extra tile that we placed in our kitchen that we want to put in our bathroom. But just a little bit of water on the tile makes it dangerously slippery. Please help. Thank you.

Dear STACY M:

Look under "Safe Solution" in the archives or goto www.safesolution.com, DK.

john 

Apr-23-2004 10:59

I just wanted to begin with Thanking you for answering my question 6959 it is much appreciated. I am alittle confuzed though know. I'm sure there is something simple about it but I thought that you couldn't use sanded grout with marble (the mosaic is made from marble) because of the fact that the sand would scratch the top of the surface. Also I probably should have said something on my previous question but the mosaic will be places on a floor that is surrounded by polished granite. Again I thought that sanded grout was unexceptable because it would scratch the surface of this stuff too(polished granite). I have asked alot of questions on your site and I have to say I am quite impressed with your site. Thanks alot. john

Dear JOHN:

A sanded grout can definetly scratch any highly polished (not glazed) surface. Yes, this would be your polished granite and yes, also your marble mosaic if the finish is high gloss polished stone. In this case you are right to use an unsanded grout. In question 6959 perhaps this characteristic of your stone was not understood. Although sanded grout would be preferred because of the various sized joints in a medallion and for it's strength on a floor, that option is limited due to the polished surface. Make sure you seal the grout after allowing proper cure time. Glad you like the site, and you're very welcome. paddy

bob 

Apr-23-2004 07:59

OK sounds good , i think i will be fine , would it be better to paint upper parts of the wall were the tiles is not going before you tile? so say i paint it and go just under were the tilte will be so i don't get paint onthe tilecan you tiles over paint if it is just a small amount say lass then 1/4 of the tile? and thanks again for all you help i am sure we all fell this way

Dear BOB:

Tile first then paint. It is easy to put a line of masking tape over the final row of tile. Paint is a bond breaker even in a small section of the tiling. paddy

Jason M. 

Apr-22-2004 23:37

What generally causes staining in a ceramic tile pool deck surface? Will standing water make greater staining? Can mold and/or algea grow in the ceramic tile if water (even chlorinated) sits on the surface to long because the pool deck will not properly drain? Once a high degree of staining occurs, will the dirt, grime, ect. make the surface more slippery when wet? If so, why? What causes the hydroplaning effect talked about on the safe solution website? How often does ceramic pool deck tile need to be changed out if it is in a high traffic, commercial setting? Thank you for your time... Very informative website.

Dear JASON M.:

Typically, an unglazed ceramic tile will be selected for a pool deck. This is because of the unglazed tile's natural slip resistance. However, almost all unglazed product has a degree of absorption. Therefore contaminants carried in water, when left to dry on the tile surface may leave a stain after the water has evaporated. The contaminant could be anything. Oil from sun bathing products, chemicals used in the pool. Mineral traces from garden fertilizers etc. Yes, if the water stands on the deck and is left to dry without first proper drainage or rinsing to neutralize the contaminant then what will be left on the tile surface is the stain. Sealing the unglazed tile will help to seal the micro-porosity of the surface but this will only rectify the situation if the deck drains properly and if it is maintained by rinsing when a contaminant is present. Mold and algea can grow in any standing water. The algae feeds off of things in the water not off the ceramic tile. Yes, any contaminant on the surface of a tile can inhibit the slip resistance of a tile. This is true for any surface, not just tile. A rough aggregate pool deck will become very slippery if covered in a film of dirt and mold. Basically, you are walking across the film and your foot is not contacting with the gritty surface of the tile. Hydroplaning is caused when water is allowed to accumulate on the surface and virtually provides a cushion of water between your foot and the deck. Depending on your type of footwear and the speed you are walking, the water does not have a chance to evacuate from under your foot and therefore contact of the foot to the tile does not happen and you slip because there is no friction across the surface of the water. When a pool deck is installed with the correct tile, proper drainage, and proven installation methods and maintained by the owner it can easily last 25 to 40years plus. Even in the highest commercial traffic. paddy

Karen 

Apr-22-2004 23:29

What is the actual size of the subway tile, now most commonly used in kitchen or bathrooms?

Dear KAREN:

3"x6" (75x152mm)

dharmesh makwanan 

Apr-22-2004 22:06

Hello! tilemen, my que. is that i would like to know which chemicals are used for harderning, making tiles more regid and waterproofing surface.I also like to know about rubber base mould tiles.

Dear DHARMESH MAKWANAN:

As you are coming from the Khetani Cement Industies you are viewing tiles as a cementitious process. These are not hardened in this fashion...it is not a chemical process lone. They are kilned and the feldspar materials liquify and flux the silicate aggregates. When cast initially, they go through a process of floculation or flocculation to remove as much moisture as possible, to reduce variation and shrinkage during kilning and resulting in a faster firing and more vitrified tile.

Tom Murphy 

Apr-22-2004 21:55

I am placing ceramic tile over an existing ceramic tile floor. I am using 60 grit sandpaper on a palm sander trying to scarify the old ceramic tile, but I am unable to even scratch the surface. Do I have to really mark up the old tile? Is there anything else I can use. Thanks.

Dear TOM MURPHY:

If it is a high gloss surface, it should not be so tough. If not a high gloss surface it should not be so needed. Using the higher quality polymer-enhance thin-set (thin-bed) mortar or epoxy motars should give you an acceptable bond.

Susan R 

Apr-22-2004 21:25

Recently, I had an installer come in and put ceramic tile in my new master bath. There are about 3 rows around the jacuzzi tub and it is from the marble shower base to the ceiling. I asked that the flower tiles be scattered. He put them all in the top 1/3. I asked him to take down the ones that were so close together and put them scattered over the entire area as well as as few more around the tub. He told me that since they have cement board behind them, the only way to change any of the tile is to take them all down and start from scratch. Is there a way to do this without taking all the tile out? I don't care if the tile breaks in taking them out. I will get new. Thanks!

Dear SUSAN R:

He's just being obstinate or is a conartist. Of course, he can remove any tiles without having to remove them all. With a character like that he'll also go out of his way to prove us wrong... by damaging and being uncontrolled in his approach and result. The worst case scenario is he damages two plain tiles for each decorative one removed. Even cement board can be patched, if necessary... if this was done in the first few days it would have benn easier to remove them.

 

Apr-22-2004 19:07

aluminum edge nosing

Dear :

???? Here are some options... www.schluter.com/english/products/2002/sectionb/overview-b/section-b.html

Uneven Grout Color 

Apr-22-2004 17:36

Dear Tileman, I recently had my contractor tiled my master bathroom floor and wall. This past Monday, they grouted the tiles as well using Polyblend sanded grout with sandstone color. However, the grout color has fair amount of uneven variation. I heard that we could use grout colorant to color the grout to even out the variation. I have a few questions for you. Since I have some trim pieces that are actually made of tumbled marbles which are porous, how should I go about coloring the grouts between the stones without coloring the stones themselves? Besides, how would the grout look like after coloring? Do they look like natural grout with the intended coloration or do they appear they are painted? Is the color really costly? I do know that it is pretty labor intensive to do the coloration. Thanks for your help in advance.

Dear UNEVEN GROUT COLOR:

Since you are concerned with aesthetics, I will tell you that uniform cementitious grout looks quite odd. It does appear srtificially painted or stained. Yes, it is vertually impossible to do your joints with a porous stone. I know it is the vision of many people, but if you look at numerous other installations you will find this variation to exist. It is normal and always has been....since the first tiles and bricks were laid. Read #3571

Norma Wagaman 

Apr-22-2004 17:16

I am involved with an exterior tile fundraising project at a school. They want to lay 6x6 exterior tiles and paint on them. Should they paint and fire them in a klin before laying them or paint the large image on the tiles after they are in place? Do you have any recommendations on what long-lasting inexpensive exterior tiles to use?

Dear NORMA WAGAMAN:

Painting tiles is not a long-lasting recomendation, nor would there be any reason to use tiles... you might as well cut wooden squares of you are painting after application. If you are GLAZING tiles, kilning them and then installing them, somone needs to understand the glazes... pottery / art classes... and kilning these tiles. I would suggest you buy vitrified, white porcelain tiles....these can also be cust from nominal 12"x12" (30x30cm) tiles... the most common size for your needs would be 8"x8" (20x20cm)

ann 

Apr-22-2004 16:34

We bought a condo with beautifull satillo tile throughout & it seems to be sealed (I found lg bottles of sealer in a cupboard). However, all chair feet etc. have left black marks. How do I remove these & clean the tile?

Dear ANN:

www.aquamix.com/c&mpdf/saltillo.pdf

Ceramic tile and slate firebox 

Apr-22-2004 15:33

I have a slate fireplace/firebox. Instead of ripping out the firebox, which I don't want to do, can I just affix the ceramic tile to the slate? It's a smooth slate finish. I just don't want to chance damaging the firebox. thanks! steve squiers

Dear CERAMIC TILE AND SLATE FIREBOX:

a.k.a. Steve Squiers ... Yes you can... it's an ideal surface... if any coatings or sealers exist, they should be removed.

AC 

Apr-22-2004 15:11

I have a concrete floor with several coats of paint, being epoxy. Does the paint have to come off before I tile, or would you recomend putting antifracture membrane on first then use Flexbond thinset with 12x12 ceramic . thanks ac

Dear AC:

The rule is... you cannot tile overtop of paint. Schluter 'DITRA' matting is the ideal solution...follow the manufactuer's instructions. www.schluter.com/english/products/2002/sectionf/ditra/601-ditra.html#application

AmyT 

Apr-22-2004 14:39

I have installed 1" unglazed hexagon mosaic tiles (daltile) with 1/8" joints in my bathroom and am getting ready to grout. From everything I have read and been told (even by the manuf.) that I should use nonsanded grout, but from your response to #6959 (the mosaic medallion) caused me to question the advice. Is nonsanded grout the right call for these tiles? Thanks in advance.

Dear AMYT:

No, sanded grout is the only way to go... really!!!!! you don't know how much trouble and unsatisfied the result of a nonsanded grout choice, for this specific application, would have left you. You're welcome.

Jack 

Apr-22-2004 13:36

Hi tile man, I bought a house that has a raised entry that was covered by 12 inch ceramic tile by an idiot! Most of the job is ok, but where the tile ends in one room, the layout was about 3/4 inch short. The side of the step is tiled and the edge is exposed. The person who tiled it just tried to gout the gap, but it broke out and looks pretty bad. I need ideas on what to fill this edge with, it's too narrow for a cut piece of tile. I thought of a hardwood edge, but my wife doesn't like that idea.

Dear JACK:

I don't mind the wood... of course, whatever idea you have, the wife will decide. Did you think of removing the last tile row completely and using a natural stone row for accent... you could even drop a couple of stone tiles into other areas for patterning. Also, edges exist like... www.schluter.com/english/products/2002/sectiona/overview-a/section-a.html

AP 

Apr-22-2004 10:43

In preparation for installing tile, I removed the existing linoleum. In removing the linoleum, there is a white residue left on the expsoed plywood on about 50% of the floor (not the black adhesive mentioned in other questions). I plan to install 1/4" backerboard on the plywood prior to installing the tile. Do I need to remove ALL the remaining linoleum residue prior to installing the backerboard? The thickness of the residue is a few millimeters and I was hoping that the installation of the backerboard would make the slight height difference between the plywood and the linoleum resdiue negligible.

Dear AP:

No, you need not remove it, but you should scrape it down well to remove what you can easily. the flatter your sub-floor the better. It sounds like they have used a standard white organic adhesive... the black residues are found on much older floors. Yes, the polymer-modified thin-set (thin-bed) mortar should accommodate the minor variation from these residues. As you are mortaring and screwing the backerboard into the sheets and joists,with noncorrosive screws, about every 8 inches, it wil be fine.

Heino M. 

Apr-22-2004 08:55

Hello again! This has got to be the most useful site ever!I've told many friends about it. Anyway, I'm interested in learning more about an answer you gave another reader regarding adding a waterproof membrane directly over existing tile in a shower in which the pan leaks. I'd love to not have to rip out the exising floor and start over. Can you point me to any referneces as to the proper way to do this? Thanks!

Dear HEINO M.:

There are products on the market that allow for creating renovations. GOTO: www.schluter.com/english/products/2002/sectionf/kerdidrain/802-kerdidrain.html#mat&app